Islamic Cairo

An afternoon exploring "Islamic Cairo", a densely packed quarter in Cairo as rich in history and magnificent architecture as it is in chaotic disorder. An absolute assault on all your senses and a truly fascinating district.

I have yet to experience a place in Cairo without completely crazy traffic. Nothing surprises me anymore, donkey carts ride alongside over packed trucks with motorcycles and pedestrians darting their way between the crazily fast pace of it all. The constant barrage of hooters never stops and despite the speed and ferocity of it all, there are surprising few accidents! It is total mayhem, and I love it.

Rifai Mosque, exquisite craftsmanship both inside and out.






Friday afternoon prayers.





My excellent tour guides - Samah, Ereeny & Sarah.


View to the Citadel between Rifai Mosque and the Mosque of Sultan Hassan.




Butcher on the street outside. Its quite normal for whole carcasses to be hung out in the streets of Cairo.


Inside the Gayer Anderson House adjoined to the Mosque of Ibn Tulun. An amazing museum of two houses which were joined together. Most fascinating for me was the various means of passive cooling, from interior courtyards with fountains to ingeniously designed windows for ventilation.

View of the Mosque and the city beyond from the roof garden.


Sarah, Ereeny, myself & Samah on the roof garden. This was also a location for the James Bond movie, A Spy Who Loved Me.


Courtyard two floors below, with open lounges and friendly curators.


View from the roof of the Citadel and the sprawl of apartment buildings.


Secret room behind a cupboard where women would spy on the men in the male only reception hall below.


The secret room.


The windows were designed not only for ventilation, but also so that you can see out but not in. An important aspect of the design given that women should not be seen at all.


A collection of exquisite handcrafted furniture and lanterns.


Entrance to the Mosque of Ibn Tulun.




Restoration of the towers and domes have saved them from water damage and collapse.






The Mosque of Ibn Tulun is not as ornate as other Mosques we had visited, but it was by far the most impressive. Its sweeping designs and open spaces left me in awe of the grandeur and magnificence of this sacred place.