postcards

Bombay!

2011-06-13T20:51:00.000+02:00

My last two days in Mumbai (or locally still referred to as Bombay) was a whirlwind tour. On the way to the airport I realised I had been so overwhelmed by the megacity I had barely taken any photos, so many of these are snap shots through a speeding taxi window.

The city of Mumbai is difficult to describe - one of those places that is an assualt on the senses, as intoxicating as only India can be. Majestic cows graze on piles of rubbish, children scream with laughter from the second story of their slum homes packed tightly on a manicly busy streets and Victorian era buildings somehow seem to peacefully watch down over tree lined streets as vendors hussle everything from fresh samoosas to the latest electronics. And everyone is honking, all the time.

Paint a city by numbers....

Number of black taxis: 40,000

Population density: 29,000 people per square kilometre

Average annual income: Rs48,900 (US$1,000 - three times national average)

Number of public toilets for every 1 million people: 17

Number of people passing through Victoria Terminus station daily: 2,5million

Number of people in 1,800 person capacity train at rush hour: 7,000

Proportion of Mumbai built on reclaimed land: 60%

Number of Bollywood movies made since 1931: 68,500

Source: Lonely Planet India, 2009

Street children drinking water on a hot summer's day.

A grand Bombay hotel across from the Gateway to India monument - still in the early morning though before the usual crowds descended upon the city. The monsoons had arrived and I breathed a sigh of relief with the rest of the country. The puddles soon burned off in the sun everytime that the skies cleared.

Thank you India for being incredible. See you again, soon.

Ghandi's Ashram & Handloom Weaving

2011-06-13T20:27:00.000+02:00

"I am a poor mendicant. My earthly possessions consist of six spinning wheels, prison dishes, a can of goat's milk, six homespun loincloths and towels, and my reputation which cannot be worth much"

Ghandi in remark to customs official at Marseilles, September 11, 1931. in D.G. Tendulkar, Mahatmar: The life of Mohandas Karamchand Ghandi.

A visit to one of Ghandi's Ashrams in Svengram was very interesting - still a functioning ashram with many residents busy at work. The simple mud huts, the honest work and the friendly ashramites was incredibly welcoming.

The place where I was staying in town was also home to a weaving company. Ghandi was passionate about the importance of handweaving - both for the importance of honest hand craft for personal development and for the benefit of supplementing family agricultural activity with supplementary income that simultaneously could bring independence to Indian from imported British fabrics (produced from Indian grown cotton). Still very vibrant today, the company makes khadi from organic cotton, handspun and weaved every step of the way, died with natural dyes and block prints before being sold to mostly local buyers who make use of their tailoring service as well. Need I say more?

Visiting Dharamitra

2011-06-13T19:42:00.000+02:00

I had the pleasure of staying a few days with a good friend, Professor Tarak Kate, who founded Dharamitra - Friends of the Earth - a non profit organisation working with hundreds (and now thousands) of organic farmers across rural central India. Based two hours out of Nagpur, the heats were now the highest yet (hitting around 47 on the day I arrived). Everyone was so incredibly welcoming and the many projects they are involved with very interesting and inspiring. One of Tarak's indigenous cattle above, he is working to reintroduce into the area. Colourfully dressed neighbours (below) to Tarak's farm where they are experimenting with many organic and sustainable agricultural practices.

With it being the end of a hot hot summer, few of the farms were in production so many of the farmers were in town working with the various cooperatives they have set up. Here a farmer is processing organic sugar cane to make fresh and delicious juice that is very popular.

The organic farmer's cooperative selling everything from food products to hair shampoos, grains to shirts. Their restuarant out back was selling all organic curries with bread and rice for Rs25, about R4. What was awesome, not just because I spent a year studying local food economies, is that these organic products were being sold directly by the farmers to the local community.

Sunset in the compound where I was staying. The food in Wardha was the most delicious yet, though I wouldnt have imagined that could of been possible.

An especially auspicious day meant that there were at least five wedding parades in the main road. Nothing quite like an Indian wedding!

We visited the site of a new campus that Dharamitra is starting to build alongside a stunning lake. Beautiful, big water buffalo blocking our way back, taking their time.

Many of the projects were working on rural technology and innovations - above are clay tiles that also keep the buildings much cooler.

A simple and effective water efficient irrigation system using clay pots and plastic pipes.

Double clay pot system with water between that acts as a natural refigeration system - keeping fruit and veg fresh in 45 plus degrees.

Paper making from waste banana leaf by product and waste cotton materials.

Exploring Old Goa

2011-06-13T10:01:00.000+02:00

A day with friends Micky and Bernie exploring the crumbling ruins of beautiful Old Goa - the strongly Christian formerly Portuguese town. Despite the sweltering heats, it was wonderful to stroll through the quiet back streets.

I have no idea how my feet always managed to get so very dirty!

Beach Paradise in Goa

2011-06-12T14:00:00.000+02:00

A week in beach paradise in Southern Goa - gorgeous beaches, most delicious food and kayaking with schools of wild dolphins - all a welcome relief from the heat of the Indian summer.

Indian beaches are quite different from those Ive seen before - cattle chilling in the sand and people swimming in full sarees. All a lot of fun!

Predawn Boat Ride on the Ganges

2011-06-12T13:54:00.000+02:00

A predawn boat ride along the Ganges -such a beautiful way to experience the full majesty of Varanasi. The bathers worshiping, the children learning to swim, the fishermen untangling their nets and the buff washermen beating the laundry clean. If only the river wasnt a festpool of sewerage and pollution under a haze of burning bodies. But, thats India for you.

The biggest issue is actually the raw sewerage from the city that pours directly into the river. An NGO has been working to clear up the Ganges for many years now, but are continuously coming against the bureaucratic inefficiency of the Indian government..

Evening Prayers

2011-06-12T13:04:00.000+02:00

Queuing, Indian Style

2011-06-12T12:43:00.000+02:00

On my whirlwind autorickshaw tour of Varanasi we ventured across the river to an old fort on the otherside. I cant remember the name of it, nor the museum inside, but I wont forget the amazing Indian queuing experience. The museum opened at ten and within a few minutes the area around the ticket booth had become a mass of people - shoving, hustling and finally, just plain sitting.

Varanasi & the Ganges

2011-06-12T12:09:00.000+02:00

Welcome to Varanasi - oldest living city in India, built on the banks of the holy Ganges River. By the time I reached Varanasi, I had endured a day of Jeep tracks down the mountains and 20 hours of train riding which in itself is a feat (especially if one includes the monkeys with face leprosy, the cockroaches for cabin mates and begging children that have eyes trained to pierce souls) to be welcomed to 46 degrees centigrade of blistering, sandstorm summer. All that and more couldnt stop the sight of ancient temples and ghats reaching down to the mighty Ganges taking my breath away. A site for Hindu pilgrims across India, it is the most revered site to die (you get to skip all the reincarnations and jump straight to enlightenment if you die in Varanasi) and an important pilgrimage site. It's also exceptionally beautiful.

Like an ancient meeting place, people dressed in all colours of the imagination come down to the river side to bathe, wash clothes and give offerings.

And, more infamously, to burn the dead. The funeral pyres along the riverside are for cremating the dead but not everyone can afford to send their loved ones through the crematoriums. Informal and illegal fires along the edge of the river side are also used for cremating bodies, or sometimes partially cremating, depending on how much wood you can afford. There seems to be no concern to wash clothes, or yourself, quite literally right next to these fires.

Just back from the Ghats the winding alleyways are bustling with as much activity.

And you cant go anywhere without seeing a lively game of the national sport of India - wildly adored cricket.

Saree washing is a special art in itself the long reams of fabric lined on stairways to dry.

The Elusive Makaibari

2011-06-12T10:44:00.000+02:00

My first destination in India was the northern hillstation of Darjeeling. Famous for fine tea production, I planned to visit the progressive Makaibari Tea Estate, renowned for biodynamic tea farming and commitment to social development in the region. But, as a friend pointed out before leaving: "you can plan for India, but India has a plan for you". So, a few days in the cold and misty hills of Darjeeling acclimatising to the sounds and smells of India before heading to Makaibari on my way to Varanasi. Unfortunately, these blurry snaps out of the jeep window were as close as I ended up getting.

The sprawling expanse of Darjeeling against the mist of the hill stations.

It was regional elections and there was a great tension in the area with a number of politicians hoping to take over power of the area. We want Gorkhaland is a movement for separation from mainland India, or at least increased independence. As such, many roads were closed and traffic was heavy with voting stations and police presence. So, no visit to Makaibari but speeding through the hills through the beautiful green hills was still beautiful.

Leaving Bhutan

2011-06-12T10:28:00.000+02:00

During my short visit to Bhutan, I experienced Im sure only a glimpse into this world. One of my enduring impressions will be of the expansive forests that cover the majority of this small Kingdom and the inherent reverence for the living world that is the foundations of Buddhism.

Exploring the remains of an old fort against the backdrop of unclimbed peaks.

My guide, Ratu, and driver, Ramish, on the ruins of the fort.

The government banned the climbing of any mountains above 5000m after a few tragedies with people trying to climb the highest mountains. It is in keeping with their philosophy that mountains are themselves sacred and should be respected, not conquered.

Bhutan is many things - including, for better or worse, highly controlled by the government. It is a place like nothing I have experienced before and the many ways in which reverence for all living things are naturally a part of daily life was incredibly inspiring. One thing is for certain is that Bhutan is consciously determining its own path towards the future - with high speed internet and luxury cars alongside archery competitions and youth training to be master sculptors, a massive investment into hydro power and national protection of forests. Bhutan is a country considered.

Tiger's Nest

2011-06-12T09:50:00.000+02:00

Tiger's Nest Monastery is perched high on a cliffside in the Paro Valley. Legended to be the place where Guru Rinpoche was taken on the back of a flying tigress, it is where he then meditated for quite some time and today is still a sacred place for retreat and meditation, as well as pilgrimage for many Buddhists.

The hike up the mountains and up the cliffs was quite something else! Reaching the monastery was definitely worth the effort though! With beautiful views from all sides, and a dramatic waterfall to pass over to finally reach it, it is an incredibly awe inspiring place.

The view of the Tiger's Nest from across the valley.

Learning in Bhutan

2011-06-12T09:33:00.000+02:00

Bhutan was an incredible learning experience and part of that was visiting the various institutions that were a part of keeping the traditions and culture of Bhutan alive. The School of Astrology is where young monks train in the art of astrology and locals come for readings. I had the fascinating and slightly surreal opportunity to have my stars read which included the strangely accurate locating of an auspicious birthmark and the prediction that I will live between two places, be self sufficient and have 3 or 5 blessed children. A few more interesting things to hopefully look forward to as well! That, and to avoid travel on Wednesdays.

The Institute of Traditional Medicine is where doctors are both researching natural medicines and practicing ancient traditional approaches to health and wellbeing. It was great to see a place where people could come for preventative and restorative natural medicine practices.

A few years ago, the School of 13 Arts was established to promote the practice of traditional arts such as mask making, sculpture, weaving, painting, metalwork, embroidery etc. The work is, ofcourse, exceptionally traditional. The quality of the final year students work is incredible and its interesting to see behind the scenes of what goes into keeping an ancient culture alive.

Life in a Monastery

2011-05-19T08:30:00.000+02:00

During my travels through Bhutan I had the chance to visit many historic buildings. Usually I tire after the first three (as Jani might be able to tell you), but these visits were so interesting as the buildings were both full of interesting history (secret tunnels, heroic battles and such) and still very much alive at the same time. The old forts, monasteries and stupas are today home to schools of monks, administrative offices and have many local visitors every day along with the very few occasional foreign tourists.

The Tzong in Punakha - once a fort and now home to both monastery and government offices.

Three curious friends I made in a monastery of one of the smaller villages we visited.

Young monks reciting prayers under the shade of the trees.

A good game of soccer to finish the day in a small monastery perched high on the hill side.

A Dog's Life

2011-05-19T07:44:00.000+02:00

Such happy dogs, seriously. But so many of them, everywhere, roaming around and feasting on 'offerings' and generally being well cared for. Not quite the same case now that Im in India unfortunately.

Punakha Valley

2011-05-19T07:24:00.000+02:00

A view of rice paddies and wheat fields with a small cluster of farm houses beyond. The houses are majestic and the fields which have been farmed for centuries, remain rich and fertile. The pace of development is certainly felt in Bhutan, with cell phones and high speed internet equally available, but the direction of the development if far more considered and that includes valuing the role of rural areas to grow food and sustain the population. As well as the importance of other factors, such as conservation and wellbeing. Bhutan is not without its contradictions though and as a very tightly controlled state, there are certainly downsides as well. One of which is the contested issue of Bhutanese refugees that is worth reading more about if you are interested.

A small stupa in the middle of the fields, with an elderly farmer making his ritual turns of the prayer wheels. Prayer is built into the everyday through household alters and stupas to be found everywhere. Prayer seems to serve many functions here, one of which is maintaining an appropriate pace to life which includes time for gratitude and reflection.

Punakha Market

2011-05-19T07:13:00.000+02:00

As always, I enjoyed a short stop to a bustling market on an open lot in the Punakha Valley. It also helps to describe some of the Bhutanese cuisine which is based almost entirely around chillies, rice, potatoes and cheese. Some eat meat - mostly cured and served with a healthy dose of chillies.

A type of fern harvested from the forests and stirfried as a vegetable.

Wild pepper.

An ingenious baby carrier made from a single stretch of fabric. I saw various verions of this, depending on the child's size. Pretty cool.

Homes that come from and return to the soil

2011-05-19T06:57:00.000+02:00

Women making a rammed earth house - singing beautifully whilst they pound the earth down. Whilst many of the new houses are still traditional in design, they are mostly made with concrete in the towns and cities. In the rural villages though, most are still rammed earth.

Some might call if dilapidated, but I found the natural materials that blended into the surrounding hills quite beautiful.

The other interesting thing about the homes is that people paint various symbols on the outside walls to bring luck and protect the house. One of those happens to be giant phallus symbols to bring fertility to the home and protect the residents from malicious gossip.

Beautiful Bhutan

2011-05-11T06:31:00.000+02:00

A week in breathtakingly beautiful Bhutan. A country like no other - pristine wildnernis covers most of the country, traditional design is compulsory by law for all buildings, gross national happiness is more important than economic growth, men wear dresses (of sorts) and the rice is red. Tourism is highly regulated (and quite expensive), so a short whirlwind and fully guided tour through Bhutan was both magical and surreal. Battling with super slow internet here in Darjeeling, India now so just a few photos for now, more to come! Above is the fort in Paro that is now government and monasterial buildings, and was our first stop from the airport. Quite typical of a Bhutanese built landscape.

Buddhism is a way of life for Bhutan - a philosophy of living that permeates everyday actions from community living to environmental stewardship.

Some of the young monks playing with my camera in a small hilltop village we visited in Punakha. Amazing ecological design, living sustainable agriculture, conservation work by communities and more to follow!

Namaste Kathmandu

2011-05-02T14:18:00.000+02:00

Back in Kathmandu for a day before heading out to Bhutan in the morning. Kathmandu is full of gems, and wandering around today was no exception.

Playing hard to get - expecting payment for photos, if you don't oblige you not getting any.

I was really trying to get a photo of his cool shades, I promise.

Begnas Tal

2011-05-02T14:09:00.000+02:00

Ventured to the beautiful Begnas Tal near Pokhara for a row across the picture perfect lake.

Paradise Found

2011-05-02T14:06:00.000+02:00

A couple of days kicking back, watching the butterflies being productive, at Hidden Paradise above the lakes of Pokhara. Life's good.

The Bus from Lamaket

2011-04-29T10:27:00.000+02:00

With a herd of goats (quite possibly magical Ms Gow) to bid as farewell from Sikles, we headed back down the mountains to a valley on the other side, hoping to catch the bus back to Pokhara from Lamaket in a few hours or so.

We made good timing getting down from the mountainside to the river in a few hours. A village on the other side of the hill you can just make out here was actually below Sikles. Not a place you would want to drop a ball, or anything really.

The walk down steep mountain paths was still spectacular, as was the river when we reached it below.

We then hiked along the river for a few more hours, and it turned out to be quite a bit more of a trek than we had anticipated. We missed the afternoon bus, so we spent the night in a small village at the end of the trail.

With no accommodation available, we were kindly offered the floor in the local primary school. It had some of the best views I have ever seen.

The little black backpack was my supplies for the week (we did eat along the way and I washed everything with one bar of soap), but still - I was really proud of myself for the light packing. Not that I could have managed to carry much more up those passes!

All in all, the trekking was incredible, the company and hospitality along the way (with many thanks to my amazing guide Bishnu as well), and the experience unforgettable. From the hot buffalo milk to the breathtaking views of the Himalayas, not soon to be forgotten!

Reaching Sikles

2011-04-29T10:11:00.000+02:00

After reaching the top of Tara Viewpoint (I was too tired to bother about photos, plus a thick mist had come in so we didnt have any views really to mention), we hiked down for another five hours or so through ancient Rodendrum forests. The flowering trees are also the national symbol of Nepal and quite beautiful. These photos dont quite do the forests justice.

Late that afternoon we reached the village of Sikles. A community of about 2,500 Gurung peoples, the village is large community sitting high up at 2,400m. There were not many views with the thick mist sitting in for the next day, but the village was really interesting. Some of the traditional slate is being replace with tin roofs, as they are much lighter to get up to those high altitudes. A new road has opened up a lot more resources for the village, but many villages are still only accessible by footpath and everything you need, you have to be able to carry up your mountain.

Oxen hard at work ploughing the land for the sowing of rice.

Traditional bee hives in cut log.

A grandmother beating wheat from the stalks. Much of the work is still done by hand, and everyone in the village is hard at work doing something.

Our host's daughter, Supiya, excited for her first day of creche.

Mountainside Villages

2011-04-29T10:01:00.000+02:00

For the next two days, it would be heading up, up and up to about 2800m - not much by Nepalese standards but more than enough for me! We passed by a few farms on plateaus with the Annapurna range in the background before heading up for more up.

All of the farms are family run, with even the youngest helping out before and after school.

The forests on the mountainsides were refreshingly shaded and lush, and alive with birds.

One of the small villages we would pass through.

A local primary school.

Terraced fields, and women carrying stones in baskets on their backs for the building of a new house in one of the villages.

Our tea house for the evening. Some evenings we spent in local inns, others in trekker tea houses (family homes with a few rooms converted for trekkers) and others in family homes.

Lunch would take about two hours from ordering, as everything was picked fresh from the garden right outside the kitchen and prepared from scratch.

Dal Baaht - the national dish of Nepal. Lenitils, rice and curry. We ate a lot of Dal Baaht and some were really delicious. Yes, I am eating curry!

Looking back on the villages we had passed through during the day's trekking.

Most evenings were spent hanging out with the local children. The girls were trying to teach me some local dances.

Take Two

2011-04-29T09:36:00.000+02:00

The friendly dog from the local inn joined me for an evening walk along the river. He was so cool, I tried to get a photo with him. The one below is probably my favourite.

Travel companions & Hot springs

2011-04-29T09:32:00.000+02:00

Where ever we walked, even when I couldnt imagine that people could pass through or even live in such remote places, then someone would come along and disappear as quickly as they came. Often carrying things like sacks of grain or massive piles of wood in baskets off their backs, and well into their old age, I never ceased to be amazed.

We managed to pass through one village as school was coming out for the day and children joined us as we made our way along the hill pathways. Practicising their English, and my Nepali, but mostly with Bishnu's translation, they made for excellent travel companions.

The small village and bus stop where we spent the night in a local tavern. Three meals, accommodation and drinks came to a total of R54.

The Seti (white) River flowed past and to the edges were natural hot springs that people from the village and across the hills would come down to each evening for a hot bath. With much curiosity from their side, I joined in, but no photos were taken!

Trekking off the Beaten Track

2011-04-29T09:19:00.000+02:00

There are a number of trekking opportunities in Nepal, and some of them incredibly popular. Many people head to Everest Base Camp or the Annapurna Base Camp where the altitudes get high quite quickly, full gear is needed to deal with the snow and you often compete with a number of other trekkers on the same route. I was wanting to get out of the cities, but not exactly up into the Himalayas.

Wanting to find a local guide so I could get a closer experience of the area (and not get totally lost!), I had come across 3 Sisters Adventure Trekking which is run by three sisters (go figure), but is highly unusual in that they are not only women owned but also train female guides which was previously unheard of. They are doing some amazing work with women empowerment in the region and protection of children. After chatting to them, one of their amazing guides was able to take me into a conservation area below the Himalayas that was far off the beaten track.

On our first day, we walked through fields alongside fields in a rich valley with a few villages inbetween.

A woman chasing cheeky monkeys out of the fields.

Sunrise over the Annapurna Himalayas

2011-04-29T08:19:00.000+02:00

Early the next morning I dragged myself up before sunrise to get to the top of Sarankot Hill. I made my way to the top just in time to catch the first light breaking over the Annapurna Himalayas and lighting up the snowcapped peaks.

You could even see the winds sweeping across the top - spectacular!

Around 05h30, you could hear the valley below starting to wake up...

... and finally the sun broke through for a beautiful sunrise. A great way to start the day!

Off to Pokhara

2011-04-29T08:08:00.000+02:00

On the advice of some friends, I headed out of Kathmandu and to the beautiful lakeside city of Pokhara. Pokhara is the departure point for many trekkers, rafters and general outdoor adventure seekers in Nepal, as well as a haven for any hippies who seemed to have fallen off the beaten track. It is set alongside the spectacular Phewa Lake in a valley of forests and rice paddies.

Sunset over Phewa Tal.

Ram, a friendly guide to the Lake.

In the middle of the lake is an island temple, and the light at sunset was just perfect.

Gangs of laughing children and stray hippies roam the streets of Lakeside, Pokhara.

Patan Durbar Square

2011-04-29T07:46:00.000+02:00

Kathmandu has a few Durbar Squares in the heart of various districts. I was staying in Patan, previously it's own capital, and often passed through Patan Durbar Square in my two days in Kathmandu. Its a perfect place to meet friends, take your lunch break or just people watch.

From paintings and photographs in the museum, little seems to have changed in the ancient centre over the past few centuries. That is until you step back on to the main streets.

Boudha Stupa

2011-04-29T07:36:00.000+02:00

Whilst still in Kathmandu, I ventured to the Boudha Stupa - the largest Buddhist pilgrimage site outside of Tibet. Travelling a bit too lightly, my zoom lens couldn't capture the whole large white Stupa but here are some closer shots from the beautiful site. The area is an oasis of peace compared with the bustling city just a few metres away and home to a large Tibetan community in exile.

Kathmandu!

2011-04-29T07:28:00.000+02:00

Just over a week ago I touched down in Kathmandu as the first stop of a few weeks adventuring in the area. Kathmandu is many things but most of all it is an assault on the senses! Everything seems to have hit the city with a bang, leaving a wake of pollution on the streets, in the rivers and choking up the air. In what I would soon learn is Nepalese style, there are beautiful dashes of colour and old world beauty mixed in throughout the city and all held together with a good dose of Nepalese friendliness and hospitality.

My first glimpse of the Himalayas after an afternoon rain storm cleared the smog for a few hours. This view and the one below from my hotel window.

The minibuses here are more like battle rams, fitting in as many as we do back home but navigating congested streets at a speed that would blow your mind.

Ruskin Mill College

2010-08-16T01:03:00.000+02:00

We made our way through the English countryside to the Ruskin Mill College in Gloucestershire. The college was founded in 1987 with a focus on land and textiles, and today there are two more colleges (for glass and fine metal works) in other parts of England. I was led to the colleges through some interesting research written on the value of craft as both an education and foundation of life skills.At this campus, they have 100 students across the three final years of school and work with young people with a range of learning and adjustment difficulties. The college is set in a beautiful valley and we had an amazing day exploring the many workshops and outdoor classrooms.

A fish farm (to the left) and productive veg gardens (to the right) line a pathway through the valley with indigenous gardens woven in between.

Some of the weaving work with looms made from wood harvested from the on site forest, wool from the sheep and all the dyes natural and as local as possible.

A purse made by one of the students. The college has a number of craft workshops, some of which also run as businesses as well as teaching classes to the general public. The students don't sell their work, but display their portfolio in the on site gallery.

The on site granite water feature company where students also work and create their own sculptures, many of which can be found across the campus (below). It was great to see the combination of workshops for learning as part of the college, small businesses and public interaction.

Every corner presented an opportunity for expressing beauty through craft. From the benches to sculptures in the river to mosaics on the bathroom floors, all quite beautiful.

The pottery studio built by the students and staff from adobe styled bricks with a green roof and natural light.

Sam, the pottery teacher, explaining to Naledi and I the story behind the work. The students are involved in the process from the very start, including mining and collecting the clay themselves. Through this, an appreciation is gained for the work that goes into creating something but a connection is also forged with the materials being worked with on a different level. This approach is incorporated across the programmes, from the sheep's wool for weaving through to the hides from the animals on the farm for leather.

Natural pot ash glaze from a willow tree on site - every tree gives a unique colour.

The carpentry studio, with a simple roof over an open space in the forest. All of the equipment was made from materials recovered from the on site forest, which is also sustainable managed.

They also have an iron age forge for metal work, and the coals (below) are made on site as well.

This college focuses on sustainable agriculture and working on the farm is an important part of the teaching. Students are involved in every aspect of the farm, and it operates as a small business selling excess produce to the local community.

A classroom, of sorts.

The paper making studio.

Felt shoes made on site. They are apparently great for cold temperatures and in Russia are worn a few layers thicker as snow shoes!

The forest on the hill through which the students walk to 'class' on the farm. The college is set in a beautiful corner of the world and it was a privilege to get to meet the inspiring people behind the programmes. The classrooms, workshops and materials are simple and through a focus on craft, quality and beauty they are giving young people a very different experience of the world.

The Eden Project

2010-08-08T19:44:00.000+02:00

We had a day in what most be one of the most interesting initiatives I have come across. Once an abandoned chine clay quarry and destroyed piece of land, the Eden Project completely reimagined the space into a massive educational centre that uses exhibits, events, workshops and educational programmes to remind people of our dependence on, and connection to, the natural world. With over a million visitors a year (and about 7,500 on the day we went), the project has somehow managed to promote sustainability awareness in a respectful way that attracts people from across the world to visit.

The designs of the buildings are inspired by nature and use designs to maximise ecosystem services and passive thermoregulation. The main domes are shaped like daisy flower heads with bee hive hexagons, and this building was shaped like something too though now I cant remember. What do you think it looks like?

The first walk through the centre down to the main domes takes you through ancient plants gardens, and explains some of the history of the world and the origins of fossil fuels.

"Please dont jump on the rocks or soil, moss is quitely trying to grow. Thank you." What is great about the project is that it promotes a postive and respectful engagement with the living world - without the apocolypse stories.

Whoever you are, its all about having fun.

Drying lavender with some creative ideas for people to take home with them.

Inside the Mediterranean Biome. (My camera totally steamed up in the hot Tropical Biome, sorry - no photos, but it was really cool!).

A section on South African fynbos, including a creative way of talking about fynbos' dependence on fire.

Some cool seating :)

A small scale mist collector.

A variety of crops on display, including Sorghum. For many people, it is the first time for them to see the real plants behind the food we eat, from cocoa to cola.

The place is huge and by 11h00 is already packed with visitors.

"Please do not feed the birds"

Around the food court seating area is a massive moon shaped food garden.

"Good planets are hard to find"

A counter made from old doors, very cool.

Subtle messages woven into different spaces across the grounds.

Cool posters packed with great info.

An amazing green wall with succulents.

Messages for a better future: recycled or reused, locally produced, prodcts with a low carbon footprint, great for increasing biodiversity, traditionally crafted, locally sourced and water conscious.

Echinicea.

The bird's nest, a simple but effective jungle gym.

Its fun to think about how both can be possible at the same time.

I couldnt resist a chocolate and beetroot cake... it was good!

"draw your favourite food".... sure there were scones and fajitas but I would love to know what "Mum's cream squash" must taste like to be someone's favourite.

The shop had some nice stuff in too.

An amazing exhibition space.

A wall of old fridge doors for leaving messages.

A really great initiative of the Eden Project: Real Cool Futures - to inspire young people to think about careers in sustainability. They share stories from young people from different sectors, from organic farmers to green designers.

The Lost Gardens of Heligan

2010-08-08T18:53:00.001+02:00

Naledi arrived in London on Sunday and we headed down to Cornwall early the next morning. After a long train ride, mostly along the breathtaking coastline, we still had time to explore the Lost Gardens of Heligan. These gardens were restored by a team from the local community led by Tim Smit, who went on to start the Eden Project (next post!). The gardens are a beautiful combination of wild and manicured spaces, from ancient cycads to wild flowers and abundant vegetable gardens.

The Cornish coastline. We were lucky to have great weather for the afternoon!

Famous for enormous bounties back in the day.

An old school blackboard from slate.

Greenhouses across the estate help to grow vegetables from warmer climates.

The great nursery.

And the resourceful information centre.

A farmers shop with local produce, including a column for food miles, from "few", 12 to "lots".

A great shop full of handmade local crafts.

A list of all produce from the estate used in the menu.

Cornish ice cream, delicious!

Fish and chips at the nearby small fishing village.

Falling down the rabbit hole at Findhorn

2010-08-04T12:41:00.000+02:00

I had heard about Findhorn Ecovillage for some time, mostly that it was a large community and had been around for some time. I was completely unprepared for what I would experience during my week stay and thats probably a good thing. There are so many aspects to what is happening there that I wont do it any justice in a few sentences - best to experience yourself. Below and over the next few posts beneath are some of my thoughts and observations of a community of people doing things differently. Findhorn is essentially a spiritual community, education centre and ecovillage, and it all comes together in a rather bizarre mix of the surreal.

A mosaic at the entrance of the Universal Hall. Findhorn was established 48 years ago by three people who have become the celebrated history and vision of Findhorn. Eileen heard the voice of God, Dorothy communicated with the plants and Peter implemented their visions. Im not one to typically share these aspects but given how critical their role has been in shaping Findhorn and the community's very strong dependence on them (despite two now being deceased), it is interesting to note. Findhorn appears to be primarily a spiritual place, attracting people of all ways of thinking and being around that, and the living in harmony with nature falls into a wider respect for all life. Celebration of art, music and dance and a strong sense of community are as important. Staying there, even shortly, certainly challenged my accepted frames of references on spirituality and community.

It is a beautiful space though and much love has gone into creating small areas of reflection and sanctuary.

Creativity, craft and the arts are highly valued in all forms, and the new Arts Centre has studios, exhibitions and classrooms.

There are several meditation spaces around the Park, including a Nature Sanctuary where a rambling green roof that was quite cool.

A number of houses have been built for staff and residents of the Park. Some were done as part of courses, individually or by the community as the whole. There are a series of houses built out of old whisky barrels that are quite impressive! The urban (or rather rural) legend goes that one of the residents went to collect old whisky slates for the boiler when the manager remarked that "you hippies would probably build houses out of these things" and so they did.

I think without realising (and despite the frequent labelling by my family as "dirty hippie"), I have found myself in places that could easily be labelled as hippie havens. But to be honest, "good planets are hard to find", "sustainability, the final frontier" might just be the case and the whole world could do with a little more "reduce-reuse-recycle-restore". Perhaps it is the grounding to the bigger picture of actual resource flows* and questions of social justice that I sensed were sometimes absent in some of the conversations I shared. But others I had the brief opportunity to meet with were more grounded and realistic than most non-dirty hippies I have ever known.

*Whilst I was there, a big upset was being made over a tree being cut to make way to bring in a new wood chip boiler for heating. The two camps were the ones who were furious about cutting down a tree (fair enough) and those who saw the bigger picture, including the irony that the entire machine would run of cut down trees anyway.

The other side of Findhorn: many of the staff and volunteers stay in caravans that are a strong part of the history of Findhorn as well, which was originally a caravan park and it was in a caravan that the founders came and stayed. All of the staff are paid the same minimum wage, whether a cleaner or director, but apparently this brings with it other challenges of how to express power. Findhorn is many things, but mostly it is just very different.

A lovely restaurant serving local, organic and seasonal produce.

There are so many people who are part of this community it would be impossible to ever generalise the experience. From technical experts to alternative churches - it certainly has an energy for attracting a unique blend of curiosity and self expression.

The Living Machine

2010-08-04T11:27:00.000+02:00

So, I have a strange fascination with sewerage treatment plants. Beyond the social stigmas, sewerage carries a lot of valuable water, nutrients and energy that many places discard and often use heavy chemicals to do that. The "Living Machine" that handles all of Findhorn's sewerage was quite something to see.

The Living Machine is basically a series of tanks that the sewerage water passes through, being cleaned up by plants and crittters along the way. It starts off with reeds that do some of the heavy lifting and the levels of plant diversity and number of living organisms increases down the row until finally fish can be found in the last tank and the water is purified to irrigation quality.

Inspired by nature, the Living Machine highlights the critical role that complex living systems have to play in providing essential services such as waste purification and nutrient recycling.

Our guide through the Living Machine had a real enthusiasm for the life inside the greenhouse.

By the fourth tank, the water is already teaming with life.

It was really great to see such a beautiful space for something we are so conditioned not to talk about. The Living Machine also highlighted some of the deeper tensions I felt whilst visiting Findhorn. The project is expensive to run and maintain and due to cost limitations, the water flows into the neighbouring dunes rather than being reused onsite. They dont really have water shortages in the area, but neither the embodied energy nor nutrients are being captured either. It certainly is pretty and lovely to see ecology in action, but there are ways of promoting both that also think about the reality of flows of resources and financial viability. A lovely place to spend some time though.

Field of Dreams

2010-08-04T10:55:00.000+02:00

A while back, the Findhorn Foundation sold off a piece of land to a private developer in order to raise funds. This land has been privately developed by individuals with a strict set of ecological design guidelines and quite a thorough interview process to be accepted onto the home owners association. What has been created are some gorgeous ecologically designed houses in the middle of the Park, known as the Field of Dreams. Some of the houses are in strong contrast to the caravans where many of the staff from the Foundation live. The rates are higher then elsewhere with additional levies, and many supplement their normal incomes by turning into B&Bs - including the gorgeous place where I stayed. Some really beautiful places but affordability is definitely a challenge.

Many made use of glass conservatories to maximise passive solar heating, especially during the cold winter months.

Simple, unvarnished timber construction. The houses all varied greatly in style, size and materials used.

A large strawbale house with characteristically curvy corners.

The houses are all pretty close to each other and privacy is not readily available, especially with the large number of visitors streaming past throughout the year. The seems to come with the package though and small gardens help create sanctuaries away from the crowds. Not sure if I would be cut out for this kind of intense community living.

The gardens were completely stunning, especially when the sun was shining!

There are a number of studios and galleries through the Park.

A small, turf roofed wooden house.

The very homely B&B where I was staying for the week.

The camera shy friend I made. Many thanks to David & Gretel for a wonderful stay at 406 Field of Dreams.

Cullerne Gardens

2010-08-04T10:23:00.000+02:00

The Cullerne Gardens at Findhorn are just beautiful. They provide a bounty of vegetables, fruit and flowers for the community throughout the year and run off the work of the residents and volunteers.

Just before the dry poppies break open to release their seeds, they form the most delicate rattles.

A fare amount of growing takes place in tunnels to extend growing seasons beyond the short summer months. Even in summer the weather is temperamental at best.

These friendly guys where mowing and fertilising the fallow beds - they seemed to be enjoying the hard work.

The guest programme at Findhorn is interesting one. People pay quite a bit to stay there and work in the gardens, kitchens and grounds. A bit of a strange concept to think that people would pay to do manual labour but there is something about reconnecting with the soil, our food, each other and ourselves that people seem to be looking for. Interesting.

One of the many quirks of the place is that they name everything, including tools. The idea is that if something is personalised, it is treated as such. They believe this is a big reason why they keep their tools for much longer and replace things less often than other places.

Everything seems to love the sun when it makes its occasional appearance.

Fresh and colourful salad packets on their way to market.

Looking for... a committed volunteer. Slightly different from the residential volunteer programme, this one was looking for a volunteer in the gardens in exchange for educational credits, meal tickets and a "box of delicious organic vegetables". Something like the Community or Talent Exchange networks that are emerging across the world - building community based the exchange of talent and non-financial resources.

The place is as much about beauty and appreciation as it is about the work itself. A hammock under the trees for a nap after a morning of work in the sun, not bad.

An apple tree against the old house, one of a few beautiful spaces carrying wholesome food.

Findhorn Bay

2010-08-02T08:52:00.000+02:00

A short walk out of the Findhorn Park grounds and through a forest takes you onto the most beautiful coastline that changes with the shifting light. Its a popular beach for locals and visitors, but somehow still feels untouched.

The Scottish landscape is unique and quite beautiful in its own way.

The small fishing village of Findhorn is nestled between the sanddunes and the bay.

Not much seems to have changed over the past few decades, and the crazy Scots are still swimming in the crazy cold weather.

The bay today.

A Green Sunday

2010-07-20T19:57:00.000+02:00

Green Sunday, hosted by The Lexi, was a celebration of community, great food and urban greening. The day started off with planting of gardens behind The Lexi cinema, with everyone getting their hands dirty, and then a Big Lunch (one of many shared lunches across the UK) and an afternoon of art and music. The weather was just glorious and so was the day.

A strip of garden that was about to get a new life.

Young boys make excellent compost compactors.

Newly planted bike racks.

Anna behind the bar.

A view from the top.

Everyone brought something to share for the lunch...

.... including a salad made entirely from produce grown of a local roof top!

Carin from The Lexi team that organised the amazing day.

Homemade berries & jelly!

Happiness is....

The vegetable drawing table for kids!

Thank you to the Lexi and Kensal Rise for such a wonderful day!

In search of ethical food markets...

2010-07-20T19:29:00.001+02:00

I love markets, I really do. And any kind of market too. Farmers markets, street markets - but normally the ones selling food are my favourite. There is something magical about the aromas of fresh bread and homemade burgers served with a friendly smile and an interesting story behind the table. When I got lost on my way to Hoxton and stumbled across Whitecross Street as the vendors were unpacking their wares, I found myself in foodie heaven.

The food was a combination of local and / or organic but mostly the focus was on the deliciousnous factor (with a good read thrown in). Ever since my adventures with local food economies in the writing of my thesis and working on agreencafe at the SI, I have been more and more interested in ethical and earth friendly food systems. Markets sure are amazing, but for are many of us are more of a weekend excursion then a stable pantry fuller and perhaps consider it too expensive as well. Maybe markets can full a bigger role in our food purchasing habits, if we take the time to think about our meals and what we are supporting. See some of Anri's interesting investigations on this here.

Another discovery in Whitecross Street was "fix", a side street coffee shop.

"Fix loves you!" as well as "sustainably produced coffee, organic milk, free wifi, chai tea latte, banana frappe, toasted stuff (mhmm) and vegan stuff". The inside was just as funky and cool, but certainly more of an indulgence (and a lovely one at that) than a staple. Where to then for our staples?

I had heard of the Cooperative Food store before and when finally on the right road to Hoxton I came across one, I couldn't help but wander in. My understanding had been that it was owned by the customers who shared in the work of running the store and get discount prices by buying directly from the farmers and sharing the savings by reducing the prices for members. So, this wasn't entirely the case but knowing how I collect and construct information it may be an entirely different Cooperative Food that I was thinking of.

Have a look at the website yourself here, which does seem to have all the trimmings of an ethical supplier. The facts don't quite add up though, with prices being the same if not more than other standard retailers in the UK, the membership benefits not amounting to much in real terms and a large range of typical products alongside an admittedly decent range of Fair Trade and / or organic produce. What benefits are really going to the consumer, and to what extent are the farmers really benefiting? How much better for the environment is this type of 'ethical' retailer? I have more questions than answers on this one for now.

Ethical and earth friendly? Well, not entirely. Maybe the starting point is a passion for good food (something the Italians know a thing about), and then figure out what local combination suits your conscience, pocket and schedule best. I cant help but thinking that building better relationships with our food (and the quality there of) as well as our relationships with the entire system involved in getting it to us is the place to start.

Two Tales of Community

2010-07-20T17:16:00.000+02:00

On Friday morning I headed out to East London to the Bromley by Bow Health Centre. In one of the poorer communities of London with a strong cultural diversity, they have brought together a number of community services in a creative way that focuses on holistic wellbeing and empowerment. It is a place where young and old come together, whether to see the doctor, visit the employment office, receive training or join the creche. There are a number of quiet spaces in the gardens as well as play ground areas for local youth. Most of all, it makes one think of all the potential in focusing energy and efforts in a beautiful space.

A wide range of services as well as support for careers and micro-enterprise.

A beautiful green atrium leading into the health services area.

Moving on from Bromley by Bow, I headed to Hoxton to a very different type of project but with a community focus all the same.

The Hoxton Apprentice is a bar and restaurant at first glance, but so much more when you see what is going on behind the scenes.

"Dining with a difference: by using this restaurant, you are helping to give long term unemployed people a second change. We give them skills, pay them while they are learning then help them find permanent jobs. We plough 100% of our net profit back into the charity."

It was great to chat to Naima to learn more about the project and also the Community Kitchen she is involved in which focuses on teaching youth and their parents healthy cooking skills.

Another great initiative worth checking out is Umzi Wethu in South Africa (see here for a short video). This initiative combines wilderness experience and mentoring with comprehensive training in conservation or catering sectors with a focus on job placement.

Whether at home or abroad, it is inspiring to see initiatives underway that creatively place community and wellbeing at the heart of their business.

Going local in London

2010-07-20T16:37:00.000+02:00

I am staying in Kensal Rise, London whilst working with our partners - the fabulous Lexi Cinema. The Lexi is a 100% social enterprise, community cinema that supports all of the projects that I work on at the Sustainability Institute. They are also a crazy and creative bunch with a passion for film and a love for community. They have been incredibly welcoming and it has been a treat to hang out this past week. I also got the chance to explore some of the area where some very cool local initiatives are underway.

Above is Minkies Deli & Restuarant which is also one of the sites of some guerilla marketing by a cool local cinema...

Minkies is a lovely side street cafe that Sally introduced me to. They have a treasure trove of local and organic produce.

A confession: I have tried everything to kick my addiction to Coca Cola, from reading the nutritional information on the cans to researching their horrific track record with staff treatment and associated environmental impacts of their operations internationally. Im not sure how much better this product above is, but it does say Whole Earth and organic, it tastes better than Coke and leaves me buzzing like a bee. No addiction is a good addiction, but this sure tastes damn fine!

Lots of food for thought...

A great idea to bottle fresh organic soups, for eating in or taking out.

An old cabinet makes a great display shelf.

And fresh oranges for juicing.

On the street where I am staying!

Tessa Anna runs a quirky nursery just across from the Lexi, which offers everything from fresh herbs in recycled containers to free gardening advice.

Watch this space for some pictures of the Lexi and Green Sunday coming up...

The Cinque Terra

2010-07-15T00:48:00.000+02:00

After Karl headed back to Germany, I spent the weekend with Sara & Charlie - two of my most favourite people in the world - on what promised from the start to be a real adventure! On Friday we tried to make our way to the Cinque Terra, a collection of five small fishing villages, on the Italian coastline. The first evening we spent a few towns short of our destination as we were quite literally stranded - the national train and bus services were on strike, the boats weren't running and the taxis unavailable! It was none the less a great evening at the local La Negria bar & hotel, and early the next morning we eventually found ourselves in the small town of Corniglia.

The town of Corniglia is a nestled in the hills overlooking the Mediterranean, with every spare inch of land terraced for viticulture and food production. The Cinque Terra are part of a National Park and boast some of the most spectacular views around.

Granadilla flower, I think.

An abundance of fresh fruit, herbs and vegetables are growing in the village.

We walked the two miles along the coastline to the next town. Along the way were people swimming and sunbathing on the beaches far below. By the time we made our way down to the water, there was no where else in the world I wanted to be.

We came around the corner to the most beautiful fishing village.

Sunbathing is a national pastime.

These twins were keeping themselves busy the whole afternoon catching small fish. Judging from their crazy tans, this was something they did most afternoons.

Gelato eating and watching the ladies go by are also pretty popular activities.

Back in the main square of Corniglia that evening we came across the World Championships for Pesto Making. I am now certain that I would like to live in a place which bestows such prestige in making fine pesto.

The whole town came out to watch, and we all enjoyed a range of fresh pastries and delights with some local wine.

It was an adventure of note and one of my best weekends, ever.

PS: Sara & Charlie have been travelling around Italy for the past few weeks. Sara is an exceptionally talented photographer and her images are just incredible - check out her blog!

Firenze

2010-07-14T20:12:00.000+02:00

We headed into Florence for the day and browsed the markets and shops that are still a rich part of the city's merchant culture. It was a fun day of bargain hunting, admiring the incredible architecture and ice cream eating!

Heaven found.

2010-07-14T19:57:00.000+02:00

Escaping to the hills of Tuscany sounded like a great idea, but only when we arrived at the exquisite Agritourisme of Fattoria Lavacchio did it become apparent that we had journeyed into a valley quite unlike anything I had experienced before. The rolling green hills lying just beyond the small town of Rufina have a gentle character of their own that is better felt than described. There are so many amazing things happening at Lavacchio, from organic vineyards and olive groves to local food procurement and cheese making. Everyone was so genuinely friendly, and organic seemed like more of a way of life than a label. I was in heaven, even if just for a day.

The old white farm house to the left is one of the buildings on the farm, and where we stayed for the night.

A view to the vineyards through our window.

Charming yet spacious accommodation.

Can you spell T-O-U-R-I-ST? Karl finally gave in to buy a t-shirt in Rome during the sweltering heat ("I love Roma" no less). Little did he know it almost got him into some serious trouble a day later in Milan when Rome and Milan played off for a major football match and nothing short of army troops where on the streets keeping on eye on the Milano fans.

The heavenly pool where we spent most of the first afternoon soaking up the sun.

The agriculture is the region is rich and diverse.

A small forest on my walk through the countryside.

Olive groves with rich soils building up beneath the old trees. I was reminded of one of my favourite pieces by Wendell Berry - Manifesto: the mad farmer liberation front.

The main farm house where we had an unbelievable dinner with all local and organic produce.

Early the next morning we explored more of the farm, including the olive groves, vegetable gardens, cellar, pottery studio and horse stables.

Happiness is.... a warm chocolate croissant for breakfast.

There is so much more going on then we were able to see in our short stay and definitely a place to dissapear to for a while... a long, soul restoring while.

When in Roma...

2010-07-14T01:41:00.001+02:00

So they say that Rome wasn't built in a day, but that is about as much time as we had to see the sites of this great city! Karl and I were on a whirlwind tour of Italy in just four days and by the end of day one we were entirely exhausted and positively overwhelmed by the many wonders of Rome. Generous portions of Gelato saw us through the heat and helped us cover the distances to see the Roman Forum, Colosseum, Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, Vatican City and everything inbetween.

We arrived in Rome late Monday evening and had the most amazing dinner - simple but delicious pizzas and great local wine bottled for the restaurant.

The cool and inviting residence we stayed at off Via Manzoni.

Early the next morning our first stop was the Colosseum (which we headed back to later to avoid the long queues) but did manage to snap a shot of the morning sun sliding gently over the top.

Italy is awesome - vespas, great ice cream and some seriously old buildings.

The now emerald green doors hint to the once rich and opulent past.

Life blossoming through the ruins of the Roman Forum.

It was really good to be a visitor in Rome again.

Food in Italy is a celebration of local, fresh and organic produce

- as it should be.

A heated discussion over the delivery of zucchinis across the way from the Pantheon.

Nothing is taken too seriously in Italy, as I would later also find out about public transport systems.

The most beautiful ride.

Even more fascinating than the Trevi Fountain was the horde of tourists presenting themselves before it.

By the time we reached the Vatican City in the afternoon we were pretty finished from all the walking, and the insane heat.

The Colosseum was as impressive as ever, although difficult to comprehend all the insane things that went down there back in the day.

Thank you Rome for a wonderful visit.

Magical Forests

2009-04-25T16:52:00.000+02:00

A quick stop at a beautiful bay to admire the views before heading on to a small reserve for a morning walk.

Shan, Jay & Bella.

Around & About Wellington

2009-04-24T21:24:00.002+02:00

Life's tough when you five (or two), can eat all the chocolate ice cream you like and draw on your face with markers without concern about either :)

Picture perfect.

One of the very many New Zealand landscapes.

The magic bathroom cleaning fairy.

Off to watch the Hurricanes vs Stormers at Westpack Stadium, Wellington with our awesome / crazy cousins from up North.

The littlies taking to the field.

A gorgeous little pebble beached bay.

And the sunrising on our very long journey back home.